An ode to the folds of Issey Miyake please


On a recent trip to Charleston, SC, I was browsing the shelves at the local RTW store and fell in love with their Issey Miyake section, specifically the Pleats Please line. As my style continues to wander into interesting silhouettes that don’t give up on comfort, the sculptural yet soft tailoring of the Japanese designer drew me in.

While combing through Instagram a few weeks later, I stumbled upon the brand again. In a recent story, style specialist Alexa Chung wrote, “I’ve always wondered when I will reach the Pleats Please phase of my life, and it’s now and it’s awesome.” The accompanying photo shows her in a knee-length olive green Pleats Please number that just grazed her knee.

According to Issey Miyake’s website, each pleated piece is “made with a unique garment pleating technique where materials are developed from a single thread and pleats are added after sewing the garments into shape.” Although described as pleated, the texture is more of a sort of crumpled effect that adheres to a range of body types and will adapt if your own size fluctuates. The line is characterized by a homogeneous fabric, although the silhouettes and hues of the dresses and sets vary only slightly over the years.

Last summer, Hunting Season’s Lena Baranovsky revealed to Coveteur that the Pleats Please Basics dress is in every suitcase she packs. “The name says it all,” she explains. And because storage guidelines require you to store crushed items, few items of clothing are more suitable for packing.

We then spotted a sparkling hot pink mini dress from the Japanese designer on Pinterest’s head of content and creative partnerships, Aya Kanai, at New York Fashion Week. Diana Bartlett of @punctuallylate is also a fan, donning both their dresses and their partings. Although the capsule-style collection has seen modest popularity since its launch in the early ’90s, Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please collection is making its way among the sartorial elite. This Spring 22 season, similar pleated offers have even appeared on the Altuzarra catwalks. Both incredibly retro and modern at the same time, these timeless and iconic must-haves are definitely an interesting way to add a dynamic touch to your wardrobe.

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