Gabriela Hearst puts on a crystal-infused show in Brooklyn

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Gabriela Hearst presented her collection through the lens of gender freedom, quoting Professor Emanuele Lugli, who teaches art history at Stanford University. “Fashion is thus rediscovered as a privileged field of investigation precisely because often it is the very practice that reiterates sexual and gender binaries”, he says, “But once freed from these obligations, fashion appears as capable of a creative new mission that has the power to disrupt self-limited lives and provide access to a healthy new life.

Freedom is a good word for the collection that walked yesterday in Brooklyn. Presented to lively, effusive percussion on a platter created by artist Kristy McCarthy aka “D.Gale” (an alumnus of Groundswell, a social justice organization that uses art to promote youth development), it sounded like the work of a designer having fun with luxury fashion. Hearst loves the earth, art and other designers, and it shows in the clothes.

The whole show almost looked like a work of art in itself, with blocks of yellow, peach and red colors intertwined with leather trench coats, a stellar cape moment, really good coats, cool suits that take advantage of cashmere recycled, crochet and fringes. Hearst used a print from a painting created by Ana Martínez Orizondo, visual artist and writer, called “Winter Horse”, one in a series that explores trees and human relationships with them. This hook isn’t just pretty, it’s also probably quite powerful, as crystals like malachite, turquoise, lapis, and onyx are woven into it.

Hearst doesn’t just tell a seasonal story with clothes – the road to getting there is environmentally sustainable and intensely conscious. These vibrant colors are created from ground recycled wood and botanical dyes made from things like citrine and watermelon. This is next level stuff. But it is not purely intellectual. These are clothes that women want to wear. These boots are made for stomping the city streets, and who doesn’t want to pre-order this double breasted suit that Amber Valletta closed the show?

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